Index

Boodul – Figured silk

Boolbool Chrshum – Figured silk

Brocade – Decorative technique where the pattern is woven into the cloth on the loom

Burruch – Camel hair cloth

Charkhana (Charkona) – Checked pattern

Charkhana Sullah – Checked muslin

Chintz – Glazed cotton cloth printed with floral patterns

Choga – Long-sleeved men’s robe often decorated with brocaded designs

Cholee (Choli) – Tight-fitting woman’s blouse worn with a sari

Chudder (Chaddar) – Square or rectangular cloth worn over the head and shoulders

Chunderkhana – A type of low-quality muslin

Chunderkora – Coarse muslin

Cumblee (Kumblee) – Woollen blanket

Cummerbund - Waistband

Damask – Woven patterned cloth

Dhoosa – Length of wool cloth worn as a wrap or scarf

Dhotee (Dhoti) – Man’s garment consisting of a rectangular piece of cloth wrapped round the waist and legs

Dimity – Lightweight cotton fabric with raised woven patterns, often used for domestic furnishings

Dooklee – A type of eria silk

Dooreea (Durreeaee) – Striped pattern

Dooreea Sullah – Striped muslin

Dungary (Dungry) – Coarse cotton cloth

Durreeaee (Dooreea) – Striped

Eight woven in a piece – Several garments would be cut from a single length of cloth

Elacha - Material made from cotton and silk, also known as Uddrussa

Elaiche – Rose-crimson colour

Endi – A type of cloth made from eria (eri) silk

English pattern – Forbes Watson referred to several checked designs as English patterns

Eria (Eri) silk – Coarse and strong silk produced by the silkworm Samia cynthia in North East India

Ezarbund - Waistband

Fag – A line woven into lengths of cloth to divide them into individual garments for cutting

Favourite – Several samples are noted as being particularly popular textiles

Foorook – Woollen cloth, also known as Puttoo

Gauze – Thin fabric with a loose open weave

Gingham – Medium weight cotton cloth often produced in checked and striped patterns

Goolbuddan – Striped silk

Gurrah – Coarse cotton cloth

Guzzy – A type of cotton calico cloth

Imitation English - Forbes Watson referred to several checked designs as English patterns

Isree – A type of cotton longcloth

Jamewar (Jamawar) – Fine woven cloth from the Kashmir region made into shawls

Kass – Cotton scarf

Khoodbauf – A type of silk cloth

Kincob – Fine silk embroidered with gold or silver thread

Kooroon – Fine woollen cloth, also known as Sulung

Kulloo – Woollen blanket

Kunawey – Plain silk cloth

Lahe – Silk handkerchief

Loee – Length of wool cloth worn as a wrap

Loom-wrought - A decorative technique where the pattern is woven into the cloth on the loom

Loongee (Lungee) – Man’s head scarf

Moleskin – Soft and durable heavy cotton cloth

Moonga (Muga) – Gold silk from North East India and Bangladesh

Mushroo – A type of satin cloth

Musjoor – Figured silk

Muslin – Loosely-woven lightweight cotton fabric

Nauker (Naukrr) – A type of cotton cloth

Palempore (Palampore) – Cotton bed cover with hand-printed designs

Pantaloons - Trousers

Plaid – Woven checked pattern, also known as tartan

Punjum – A type of cotton longcloth produced in a range of thread counts

Puttoo – Woollen cloth, also known as Foorook

Satin – A weave that produces a glossy finish to one side of the fabric

Saujoo Gool Goshen – figured silk

Shot silk – Silk woven from two different colours in the warp and weft that produces a shimmering appearance

Soojnee (Soojney) – Bed cover

Soosee (Soosi) - Striped cloth used to make trousers

Sullah - Muslin

Sulung - Fine woollen cloth, also known as Kooroon

Suttringee – Cotton rug

Tartan – Woven checked pattern, also known as plaid

Toosee – Coarse woollen cloth

Tussur (Tussar) – Silk commonly produced in Bhagalpur

Twill – A type of weave where the threads are woven in a diagonal pattern

Ubra – Figured silk cloth used to make shawls and chogas

Uddrussa – Material made from cotton and silk, also known as Elacha

Ulukh – Material made from cotton and silk

Yeolah (Yeola) – Major handloom weaving town near Ahmednagar in Maharashtra